The online store has only just been setup so it’s not complete yet, however here is your chance to help out!

Comment in with your suggestions on what other scooter graphics you’d like to see available and we’re going to get them produced and put on the online store!

What do you think of the prices?

Store layout?  Easy to naviate?

Checkout process?  All go well?

Let us know your ideas and suggestions!

ONE LUCKY COMMENTER (PICKED AT RANDOM) WILL ALSO WIN A COLLECTION OF GRAPHICS!

www.anrsigns.co.uk

As a scooter mechanic, I’ve worked on pretty much everything at one time or another, from Piaggio’s, Peugeot’s, Yamaha’s, and right down to the cheap and nasty crap like the first generation Chinese scooters.

As far as I’m aware, Piaggio actually released the first big selling 4 stroke 50cc scooter with the Vespa ET4 50cc, over 100mpg compared to 65-70mpg for it’s 2 stroke counterpart definitely made it a winner among commuters, but with it’s high European build quality and all metal monocoque chassis, it wasn’t the cheapest scooter on the market, and this was the way the market was heading: 16 year old lads still wanted scooters with the best handling and performance (a niche pretty much dominated by the Piaggio NRG, Gilera Runner and Yamaha Aerox, in that order), and older people trading in their cars for cheap transport wanted something just that; cheap.

The problem is as I see it, most car owners see their £6-7000 car (at the cheap end) as a big machine, they then look at a scooter and thing “oh it’s only a scooter” and wonder why it costs £1600+ for the top of the range Italian liquid cooled 50cc’s, not realising that just as much development goes into these as modern cars get, right down to race track testing.  So with this in mind, the car owner trots off to find the cheapest scooter available, and usually finds the cheap Chinese scooters being sold en-mass through the internet and eBay.

So what’s wrong with them?

Admittedly, they have got a lot better recently; the first generation Chinese scooters had the worst build quality imaginable, with lots breaking by the time they got to the end of the street with faulty electronics etc, but they have improved a fair bit in later years.

I think Chinese scooters are perfectly acceptable forms of transport, as long as you see them for what they are; cheap transport with good fuel economy.  If you pay £500 for a brand new scooter, don’t expect Italian quality because you simply will not get it.  The way I see them is, if you buy one you can use it everyday for a year, not service it and throw it away, and it’s only cost you £500, or £1.37 a day, which is less than what a bus to and from work would cost you, let alone a car.

Since the Chinese scooters are so cheap and don’t have a regulated dealer network, you also tend to find that most Chinese scooter so called “dealers” are either one man bands selling them from his garden shed on eBay, or a car dealer in to make a quick buck, neither of which have any specific scooter experience or significant backup.  In the early days of Chinese scooters, this was a major problem as when they went wrong, their “suppliers” didn’t carry any spares and most places ended up having to order in extra Chinese scooters, just to break them for spares for warranty work, as by law all new and second hand vehicles require a 6 month parts and labour warranty if sold by a dealer, unless sold at auction, which is why so many where sold on eBay originally, because it got the Chinese scooter dealers out of any liability.

Nowadays, the spares backup isn’t so much of a problem, as there are now a few major importers and stockists, as well as increased quality and multiple Chinese scooters being sold under different brands, sharing the same spares and parts.

As a former mechanic, my biggest problem with Chinese scooters was the fact they weren’t sold by proper dealers, and these people never got paid a PDI fee like the bigger franchises do.  The PDI is a Pre-Delivery Inspection, but it is also meant to include a strip down and copper greasing off all the bolts for later servicing in the scooters life.  Although not essential, if you’ve ever had to remove an M6 low quality mild steel bolt after a year of picking up road crap and rusting, you’ll know why they need greasing from new!  At my work I was trained to do every major bolt that was used regularly in servicing plus a few others before the scooters even turned a wheel, so when it came back for servicing, our life was easier and the customers life was easier if they needed work doing, the costs for drilling out rusted and snapped bolts tend to be a lot.

Due to the fact that most cheap Chinese scooters don’t have any of this done from new, just battery acid and air in the tyres (if that!), most mechanics and scooter dealerships won’t touch them with a barge pole.

If you’re planning on getting one of these cheaper Chinese scooters, it might be worth ringing around your local mechanics and telling them you already have one, will they work on it?  If it’s no from everyone, I wouldn’t bother getting one unless you’re fairly mechanically able yourself.

So can you get decent Chinese scooters?

Actually, yes you can now, but with varying prices, because as quality goes up, so does price unfortunately.  They’ll all do around 40mph when derestricted, but 30mph as per the law when restricted.
The 3 main groups of Chinese scooter are:

The traditional cheap Chinese scooter (Sukida, Lifan, Skygo, Baotian, Zhongyu, Kinroad, Jianshe, Jialing, Jinlun, Xinghue, Skyjet etc you get the idea), all the 50cc scooters are pretty much the same bike (Baotian QT50)

These are the original Chinese scooters sold by many, and in my opinion, are perfectly good bikes providing you use them for what they are; cheap transport.  Like I said before, if you buy one and use it for a year then throw it away, it’ll still cost you less than your bus fairs would.

Generally as well, most of these are bought unregistered, and you have to pay a £65 registration fee and £15 tax on top of this (along with number plate and petrol), which is something to factor into the cost of buying one too.

Pros:  Cheap transport, excellent fuel economy

Cons:  Not PDI’d properly most the time, no official spares supplier, hidden costs.

Peugeot VClick

This is the same as above believe it or not, just the normal Baotian Chinese scooter but rebranded under Peugeot.  This retails at £829 according to the official Peugeot website, and this includes a PDI, Petrol & Number Plate.  However, this doesn’t include Registration fee and Tax, so add another £80 to this for on the road price.

Pros:  Proper dealer network and PDI with a full 2 year warranty

Cons:  Still the same cheap Chinese scooter as the originals, nothing to stop you buying one and just fitted Peugeot parts to it if it goes wrong.

Piaggio Zip 50cc

This is the classic Italian Piaggio Zip, but now assembled in China, even though it still uses many Italian parts.  The price is normally £1099 OTR, but is currently reduced to £999 OTR.  The £999 cost is exactly that - £999, includes PDI, Number Plate, Petrol, Tax, Registration, everything.  You just need to sort out your own insurance as with any bike, but even this Piaggio cater for by providing very good insurance rates through Piaggio Plus run by Lexham Insurance.

The Piaggio Zip’s come with a full 2 years unlimited millage parts and labour warranty, backed up by the biggest scooter dealership network in the country, with next day delivery spares if it even breaks down.

Our local CBT & Test training centre tried one of these out and were so impressed they made their entire 50cc fleet the new Piaggio Zip’s, which in my mind, really proves how good they are, considering they’re being used all day everyday during CBT’s, and my old work has never had any returned for warranty work yet either.

Pros:  Huge dealer network with next day spares backup, very reliable, top quality, top brand and will hold their money compared to other manufacturers

Cons:  Most expensive of the Chinese range, but still cheap at only £999, which includes registration and tax and everything.

My overall opinion on these bikes is, you get what you pay for, and they’ll treat you how they treat them.  If you buy the cheaper Chinese scooters, PDI them properly, and service them regularly, they’ll happily last 2 years nowadays, but after that don’t expect brilliant resale value.  If you’re not mechanically minded enough to do this yourself, the Peugeot VClick or Piaggio Zip’s are the better option, although the VClick is just a rebranded cheap Chinese scooter, so I personally don’t see the point in paying £900 after fee’s for one, considering the Zip is better quality for only £999, and will still easily sell for £5-600 after 2 years.

You’ll further save money if you’re getting one of these scooters instead of a car for commuting, they all do 100-120mpg, so the fuel savings alone will cover the cost of their purchase after 6 months or so, and if you passed your car test before February 2001, you don’t even need to take a CBT to go on the road, nor need L plates!

The pistons in all cylinder kits, not just Malossi 70cc big bore kits, have a little arrow on the top of the piston.

This arrow faces the exhaust port, so it is generally facing down on horiztonal engines and towards the front of the bike on vertical engines.

Fitting the piston the right way round on big bore cylinder kits is extremely important, since the big bore piston rings arn’t complete (they need to split to squeeze over the piston), they have a point in the piston there the two ends meet.

These two ends generally line up between the middle and outer transfer (intake) ports on the rear of the cylinder providing you have fitted the piston in the right way round.  Fitting the piston backwards on a big bore cylinder kit will result in these two ends opening up slightly in the exhaust port and possibly catching.  As well as this a lot of pistons have a cut away piece for helping intake induction on a certain side, and sometimes are cast / machined to take more pressue on the exhaust / thrust side.

Another top tip for 70cc big bore kit fitting is not to forget to re-fill the coolant before the test ride on liquid cooled bikes….doh!

Pre 2000 Piaggio / Gilera engine – No catalytic converter and Dellorto or Weber 12mm carb

2000-2005 Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa engine – Catalytic Converter and 17.5mm Dellorto carb

2005 onwards Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa engine – Catalytic Converter, 17.5mm carb and slightly lower exhaust port

There are minor differences between the Piaggio 50cc engines (which is the same motor fitted in every Piaggio, Gilera or Vespa 2 stroke 50cc machine produced, e.g the Piaggio NRG MC3, Gilera Runner, Piaggio Typhoon, Gilera Stalker, Vespa ET2 50cc, Vespa LX 50cc, Piaggio NRG Power etc) but no real major differences between all the engine versions, just mainly setup changes with the introduction of the catalytic converter into the Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa Exhausts

The pre 2000 engine came with no catalytic converter and a 12mm carb fitted. This engine is getting on a bit now, and there aren’t that many bikes left on the road with it, although I’ve seen more Gilera Runners still about at that age, so I presume they sold a lot better than anything else. Derestricting this engine is the simplist method, done in two parts.

Firstly, the variator requires derestricting to get rid of the restriction on your gearing, and hence top speed. The variator is restricted via a small washer inbetween the front pulleys of the transmission, this stops the pulleys moving all the way together, and is effectively like cutting off 5th and 6th gear if it where to be a geared motorcycle. This is easy to desrestrict just by undoing the outer pulley and removing the washer, nothing else needs changing when doing this. For this derestriction, you’ll need either an air powered impact wrench (windy gun) or a variator locking tool, which can be bought from Machine Mart and any VE-UK dealer respectively.

The second restriction is a small pipe coming off the exhaust which interupts the gas flow slightly, this is not a major restriction and isn’t really that nessecary as I find it isn’t worth the hassle of cutting off and welding over (if you’re doing the derestriction job properly) or the hassle of crimping it tight for the miniscule power benefits it gives. On these pre-cat Piaggio / Gilera engines, no jetting change is required, they come with a 12mm carb and a 72 main jet as standard, this can stay standard even if you fit a race exhaust, only when fitting a 70cc big bore kit must you upgrade to an 80 main jet.

The two post-cat Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa engines have a similar method of derestriction, but can require jetting changes.

Again, the first and foremost restriction is the washer in the variator. Removal of this derestricts your top speed limit as the pulleys are free to work as they where intended too. Derestriction of this part doesn’t require lighter rollers either, contrary to popular belief.

As with the pre-cat Piaggio / Gilera engine, the new post-cat models have one or more restriction pipes coming off the exhaust downpipe, as well as a SAS valve (Secondary Air System). For derestriction, all these can be cut and welded, or crimped. Again I find this a lot of hassle for relatively little performance benefits, it is much better and easy to save up for a performance race exhaust which then shows much larger performance benefits compared to just derestricting the original exhaust. Unlike the pre-cat Piaggio / Gilera models, the post-cat engine (now also fitted in the new Vespa’s too) requires a jetting change when derestricting the original exhaust, and this is where the 2005 split differences on the Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa engine come into play.

In 2005, firstly in the new Piaggio NRG Power scooters, then following Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa models as the production continued, Piaggio had to lower the exhaust port 2mm for emmissions, and the jetting was altered slightly as well. All post-cat Piaggio / Gilera / Vespa models now come with a 17.5mm carb, and either have roughly a 53 or a 56 main jet, depending on whether its a pre or post 2005 model respectively. When derestricting the standard exhaust, you generally go up by 2-3 sizes, so you’ll end up with 56 or a 58 main jet depending on the model. If you choose to skip all the hassle of cutting and welding the standard exhaust to derestrict it, you can fit a race exhaust and just fit a 60-62 main jet instead. I usually reccommend jetting slightly on the richer side for air cooled bikes since they’re cooling system isn’t as good (running leaner with a smaller jet produces more heat), so even bikes that had a 53 main jet in originally could well still benefit from ending up on a 58 or 62 main jet (depending on the exhaust fitted).